UCONN HISTORICAL COSTUME & TEXTILE COLLECTION




1875

Dress with bustle


Sage green extremely elaborate two-piece bustle dress. Bodice is pleated and bottom of jacket comes to a point. It has a stand-up collar and 3/4 length sleeves. The long narrow sleeves add to the rigid formality and military bearing. The bustle is soft and low.

In the 1870’s, the enormous skirts that were fashionable in the 1860’s dropped their hoops and continued to shift further to the back of the dress, creating a low sleek line. The front of the skirt became narrower with less fabric while the back became more and more elaborately draped. Rows of pleats, fringe and lace developed in the front to camouflage the awkward bump where the corset ended. Ultimately, the rows of trim turned into an apron bustle in the front, to counterbalance the weight of the back. Military styling came into fashion, as European armies from different nations waged imperialist wars over distant lands. Consequently, bodices often had high necklines and were neatly buttoned all the way up, even for social and religious occasions such as this. Walking becomes a new concept as people go to visit each other on foot. The skirt train is pulled up in the back to keep it from dragging in the dirt.


Provenance:
Gifford, Mrs. Frances Storrs, CT.

Construction Label:
NA



1958C 1875.12